Liberation of Stefano Pilati, YSL


Remember what Stefano Pilati said during the Vogue docu-film, “The September Issue”? He said, “Fall is never a season of color for me”. It was more of a gloomy mood, hence the pure black and white in the entire collection – well, mostly. There are a few touches of color, like the gold chain belts, necklaces and a few strikes of electric blue.

So this season, YSL enter new heights, actually length for that matter. Shorter skirts were shown this season. A length that seemed like promiscuous valecdictorians – the pleated skirts in checks –  that we can still see in this era.

It is said to reference the age of 60s where women were liberated.

This can be seen quite prominently in the collection, in which is also a frequent element of Yves Saint Laurent – power dressing.

Sleek checkered coats and satin tops started it off. Then followed with a tuxedo manipulated coat jacket and bold uses of fur. And a note to the coats, notice the cuff area of it. It is contrasted in a lighter color, something which reminds me of the Dolce and Gabbana menswear collection just recently.

It is a subtle note that you probably wouldn’t notice in a video but through the magnificent detail shots of Style.com, you wouldn’t miss it. This kind of contrast is what I am currently obsessive with and try to search for.

But back to the collection, the power dressing were amazingly done. Perfectly matching the theme of 60s where women strikes back at society for equality. They gained more confidence and started dressing in a whole other manner.

Which brings me to, the sheer blouses and dresses that were slightly transparent. Enough for you to see something but not everything, that can mean only one thing, the new power of women to control what they want to be seen.

And the final twelve looks that stomped the runway. Twelve beautifully white clad models in amazingly done looks. From sheer mixed satin jumpsuits to cocktails, kimono wraps and evening looks.

All of it looked so soft and feminine but still have the sexy and seductress feel to it. The women of YSL this season looks for control and are ready to seize it.

What I said in the post title about the liberation of Stefano was because of this quote from Tim Blanks.

On some level, it probably worked because he’s successfully isolated the genes he shares with Yves, which meant there was more instinct at work than before.

All in all, a super sexy and powerful collection from Stefano for Yves. Enjoy the shots.

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Till my last two posts of Paris Fashion Week, Au Revoir!

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